Water Works - Travel Section Feature on Branson from St. Louis-Dispatch

Water works BY TOM UHLENBROCK St. Louis Post-Dispatch BRANSON, Mo. - The star of the show was out of action for the week. The main mission of my trip to Branson was photographing the $7.5 million "water and fire spectacle" that was packing them in on the Town Square amid the condos, shops and restaurants of Branson Landing on the Lake Taneycomo waterfront. Promos for the new $420 million commercial district described the attraction as "a dazzling interplay of water fountains shooting 120-foot geysers and fire cannons blasting choreographed fireballs -- all composed with light and music." The display was created by the same folks who gave us the waltzing waters in front of the Bellagio in Las Vegas. But in place of water geysers and blasting fireballs was a sign that said: "Fountain under maintenance." A lone worker was toiling inside one of the silent cannons. Bummer. The fountain was about the only thing not working in Branson these days. Dan Lennon, vice president of the area chamber of commerce, had a handful of impressive statistics ready when we met for lunch at Chateau on the Lake, which sort of symbolizes a turnaround going on in this entertainment area in the Ozark hills of southwest Missouri. "People thought John Q. was nuts when he built this place," Lennon said, referring to the hotel that has become known as the Castle on the Lake since its opening 10 years ago by developer John Q. Hammons. Branson's role as a live entertainment tourist attraction began modestly in 1967 when Lloyd Presley set up the first music hall in a metal building on Highway 76 to cater to the sportsmen who fished the lakes. Lloyd and his updated family theater are enjoying their 40th anniversary this year, and he has company. Branson now has about 50 other theaters, many of them state of the art, and has earned the title as America's "live music capital." A decade ago, Branson's Bible Belt reputation ruled. A promotional campaign produced by the Chamber of Commerce that included a couple clicking wine glasses was denounced by the anti-alcohol forces. Today, you can get a cocktail with dinner at most restaurants, a winery has a tasting room just off the strip and another is on the way -- and some of the theaters even offer wine at intermission. Hammons upped the ante on the lodging department when he built his lavish hotel, with a stream running beneath a giant oak in the 10-story atrium, to compete with the mom 'n' pop resorts and chain motels offering "2 for $28" deals. He soon found there was room for upscale in Branson. The latest upgrade, aimed squarely at the baby boomers with time and money on their hands, is Branson Landing, which opened a sleek 243-room Hilton boutique hotel on Valentine's Day. Another 12-story luxury Hilton is on the way, joined to the convention center scheduled to open in August across the street. With Missouri's first Belk Department Store anchoring one end of its pedestrian promenade, and a Bass Pro Shop on the other, visitors to Branson Landing have about 100 shops and restaurants to browse through, including a slew of fancy names such as Ann Taylor, J. Jill, Justice -- Just for Girls and Victoria's Secret. Victoria's Secret in Branson? "It was an exercise getting some of these retailers to consider Branson," said Todd Hiepler, general manager of the Landing. "But when they understood that seven million people were coming with money in their pockets, it wasn't hard for them to crunch the numbers." Hiepler's numbers actually were outdated, according to Lennon, the chamber VP. He provided statistics that said the city's visitation, which had been relatively flat for several years, had risen 8.9 percent last year to more than 7.9 million. Better yet, the visitors included more newcomers (22.6 percent) and were staying longer (4.31 nights), spending more money ($768 per party) and coming from farther away, nearly two-thirds traveled 300 or more miles. Lennon noted that the average adult age of 58.7 years had not changed, but added, "The level of amenities that baby boomers and younger people expect today is proliferating in Branson. We'll still be a great senior destination, but more young people will be coming here." Lennon attributed the good news to several factors: • An increase in the annual marketing budget to $9 million from $3.5 million, thanks to a new 1 percent retail sales tax. Much of the advertising was spent in the Chicago and Dallas areas. • The openings of the Titanic Museum, which is housed inside a giant replica of the ship's bow, and of Dick Clark's American Bandstand Theater, which features vintage performers such as Fabian and Bobby Vee and vintage cars in a museum of 57 57s, as in 57 meticulously restored 1957 models. • Chateau on the Lake's addition of the $6 million Spa Chateau, which has 10 treatment rooms and a 30-foot-high crystal waterfall chandelier in the foyer. • Silver Dollar City's continued expansion of rides and attractions at its theme park and at the adjacent Celebration City amusement park. • And the opening of Branson Landing, which is expected to boost the year-round numbers. Lennon said, "Our figures show that over 60 percent of the visitors in 2006 checked out the Landing." And many of them probably came to check out the fire-and-water show, which I have yet to see. Hiepler, the Landing's GM, explained that workers were tweaking the balky fountain. "We've never had all 15 of the fire shooters going at the same time," he said. "When you're combining fire and water, you're going to have those problems. But it's unfortunate because a lot of people come to see the fountain, and they get upset when it's not working." Tell me about it. Branson now has two distinct tourist areas: The Highway 76 strip and its lineup of souvenir shops, go-cart tracks, quirky museums and glitzy theaters, and Branson Landing, where teenage couples strolled hand-in-hand on the promenade and families toted boxed bundles out of the Build-A-Bear Workshop. Actually, there's a third area if you count the flea markets, collectible shops and local diners spreading out from Main Street in historic downtown Branson, which rises on the hill overlooking the Landing and Lake Taneycomo. The Landing has its own version of Dick's Five and Dime, but the real thing has been in the historic district since 1929. "We've got what you forgot," says the sign. There already was a wealth of outlet malls in Branson, but the Landing adds another shopping dimension. You can buy a $5 ice-cream cone at Haagen-Dazs, five pairs of pink panties for $25 at Victoria's Secret and a Tracker Nitro bass boat for $36,800 at Bass Pro Shops. Why was the boat $36,800? "Because it's on sale -- it was $39,000," salesman Joe Presnall said. "Big boat, big motor, big bucks. We try to guarantee at some point that it will catch at least one fish." By this summer, customers who want to try out a fancy fishing boat will be able to take it for a test run from the marina Bass Pro is building on the waterfront, along with a floating restaurant. Most of the Landing's restaurants overlook the water, including Joe's Crab Shack, Sullivan's Steakhouse and Cantina Laredo, which was garnering raves for its gourmet Mexican fare. The Landing will have a single theater this summer with the opening of Wedding Italiano, which will include an Italian restaurant and a dinner theater showing a version of "Tony n' Tina's Wedding," which has been a hit on Broadway and in several other cities. Alden Grant, chef at the venerable Candlestick Inn, which sits on the bluff opposite the Landing, said many existing owners didn't know what to expect when the new development opened. "But our business has increased 30 percent," Grant said. "And people looking out the windows of the new convention center are going to see one thing -- our neon sign." Not everyone was overly impressed with Branson Landing. "It's a shopping mall," said Melanie, a schoolteacher from Vian, Okla. "We come to Branson every year for this." "This" was the live entertainment that is Branson's calling card, and Melanie and her husband were sitting in second-row seats at the Hughes Brothers Celebrity Theatre on Highway 76 for "SIX," the hottest new show in town. The six Knudsen brothers combined humor, hits and a cappella singing for a high-octane show. They savaged Wayne Newton, did a bawdy Tom Jones, hit all the high notes on the Righteous Brothers' "Unchained Melody" and bopped around in Hawaiian shirts for a Beach Boys medley. Also new this season is "Best of Motown," showing in the same theater. Two of the three male singers are from Detroit and grew up listening to their idols. With shiny gold suits and dance steps borrowed from the Temptations, these three also rely on their soulful voices. No backup band, no lip-syncing. If you loved Marvin Gaye, the Four Tops and Smokey Robinson, you'll love these guys. "No country, no rap, no disco," said Dicki "DJ" Jonez, mopping sweat from his shiny head. "It ain't hip-hop, but it's where hip-hop came from." IF YOU GO BRANSON LANDING • For a complete list of the shops and restaurants, call 888-526-3464, or visit www.bransonlanding.com. • Hilton Promenade Branson Landing: Call 800-445-8667, or visit www.promenadebransonlanding.hilton.com. • Branson Convention Center: Call 417-336-5401, or visit www.bransonconvention.com. LODGING Chateau on the Lake Resort & Spa: Call 417-243-1700, or visit www.chateauonthelake.com. ENTERTAINMENT Hughes Brothers Celebrity Theatre: For information on the shows "SIX" or "Best of Motown," call 800-422-0076, or visit www.hughes-brothers.com . All things Branson: For show schedules and lodging, call the Branson/Lakes Area Chamber of Commerce and Convention and Visitors Bureau at 800-935-1199 or visit www.explorebranson.com. -- http://www.bransonedge.com http://www.bransonmissouri.blogspot.com